sprie's latest activity

I have bought a replacement for a leaking heating matrix and cleaned up the box around it. I have put some foam on the inside to try and make it as airtight as possible. My plan was to rivet the lid back onto the box. I have hit a snag: the...

I thought the end of the distributor had an offset tooth, which won't fit into the drive dog.

Whilst my series 3 did not originally have reversing lights, I would like to add them for safety reasons (and my new loom has the connections for this). I need to add a switch to fit on the Lt76 gearbox (which has a hole in what I think it's the...

ach. you can't really tell from that photo, but i think i have put the brake backing plate behind the stub axle - and i think the stub axle goes on first then the backing plate. I don't know why i did this. But this would move the backing plate...

I have come to the conclusion that the issue does not relate to the shoes. On the photo, the measurement shown for the front wheel is about 10 – 15mm longer than on the rear wheel. I have swapped the brake drums, and the front drum fits nicely...

Despite my best endeavours when rebuilding the engine, i landed up with the situation that the rotor arm was 180 degrees out i.e. if i have pot 1 HT lead the opposite side to where it should go on the distributor (and do the same to the other 3...

When I fit the rear drums, they virtually fit all the way up to the backing plate, which is what i expect. The two drums at the front don’t want to go the whole way – you can see there is a significant gap from the drum to the back plate. The...

I have now got the shoes fitted - and i cannot believe how difficult it was. In the end, i had to a) drain transfer case of oil, so that i could... b) ...remove the drive (otherwise all the oil drained out) (which obviously involved removing one...

In the picture below, spring 503981 should be attached to the pole on the brake shoe at one end (where the 232074 label is) and where? In one video i saw, the other end was attached to the pole on the back plate, which is what i have done. But...

I have the two shoes and the 2 green springs. I foolishly put most of the mechanism in place and thought i could fit the shoes and the springs at the end, but i have wasted 3 hours so far on this. I have now taken off the two expanders (either...

thanks for the info, that was exactly what i needed to know. I will have go fitting another diaphragm, as carefully as i can.

ref the fuel leak, I cannot work out if there is supposed to be fuel one side of the diaphragm or it should be air. If it is air, then the fact the diaphragm leaks fuel is a symptom of something else that is wrong. If, however, it supposed to be...

This is so simple, but I don't know what is right. I have 4 new hub caps - i thought i would just tap them over the hub and that would be that. But they don't seem to want to fit. I put a tiny bit of grease over the hub and also tried heating up...

My carb has recommenced leaking. I was testing the car up and down my drive today with quite a bit of throttle. Once I had put the Landy back in the garage, I could see petrol dripping from the carb onto the manifold – not ideal. The drip seems...

that was it - driver error. many thanks

Yup, wrong hose (despite me ordering the right ones etc). I swapped a spare i had and the one from the back of the car, which had longer threads at both ends, and that sorted the leaks. and then put one of these on the back. So leaks sorted.

Drove the bare-bones car out of the garage onto the drive for the first time after the rebuild. Brakes mostly ok, just need a bit of adjustment. Clutch feels OK – bit grippy but that’s to be expected. Engine starts and idles fine but needs...

The end nearest the wheel. I have seen that I could swap the hose on the rear axle with one of the ones at the front. The one on rear axle has identical, longer threads on the connectors.

I decided to buy a set of ready-made brake pipes for the Landy as that way I know I would have the right size tubing, connectors, good flares etc and they would be the right length. So, I fitted these to the bare chassis, and they looked fine...

Interesting. I will see how the clutch feels and will consider what you suggest.

i have the original mechanical pump. Now that i have started investigating, it has stopped leaking. I am sure it will come back soon!

I will investigate tomorrow. As part of the restoration I did renew the diaphragm and seals on the pump and I know it produces fuel at high pressure as it leaked or of the

I replaced it with a new one

I have been fitting the accelerator linkage from the pedal to the carb, and doing this I pushed the pedal a few times to test (with the engine off). I can see some fuel escaping from the Weber carb. I had seen this previously and had carefully...

This is why I dread making brake & clutch hoses – it’s not the making (which I like), it’s working out what connector sizes…. For background, I bought the 2 metal pipes/1 rubber hose the part book lists to connect the clutch master to the slave...

Yup, lots of jiggling, tweaking and the jobs done - i have got the joint bracket further away from the side of the chassis, and got the pipe raised a bit, so it is away from the rubber gearbox mounts. Thanks for the steer.

I bought myself the 3 pipes/hose (2 metal, 1 rubber) that lead from the clutch master to the clutch slave – I could have had a go at making the metal ones, but part of the reason for the purchase was that the shape would inform me the route the...

I have just attached my gearbox back to the engine, and this has highlighted a couple of issues with the routing of the exhaust. I can get it to sneak past the gearbox mount, but it is a bit close Where the front exhaust section is joined to the...

When I dissembled my old slave cylinder there was no circlip behind the seal. There is no recess in the wall of the cylinder that I have seen on master cylinders for circlips. My cylinder seal kit included the seals and also a (mostly) C-shaped...