Recent content by Rangieman123

The fuel and temp gauges will get their power feed via a small metal box about half the size of a box of matches. This stabiliser reduces the voltage to power the gauges and also helps to buffer and slow the movement of the gauge needles. If you have the wrong one fitted, both of your gauges can...

Seeing as you have the correct sender, I'd suggest checking if you have the right voltage stabiliser.

or you could convert to hydraulic clutch.

From memory, your 86'' has a solid shaft clutch release mechanism from the pedal. So no hydraulic clutch. You would need to keep your original bellhousing but I don't know for sure if it will correctly fit to a Series 3 gearbox.

If your throttle position sensor isn't giving the proper voltage signal at closed throttle to the ECU the idle control valve won't be commanded to function as the ECU doesn't know the engine is to maintain idle. Does it idle more smoothly with the air mass meter unplugged? One, or both of your...

I have seen some Series before where they have a tie bar between the crossmember and the gearbox. It looked like it limited movement in the mounting rubbers when the hand brake was engaged.

On a side note, if you drill out the hole in the centre of the steel adapter by 2mm it makes the clutch pedal noticeably lighter. Just take care tightening it into the master cylinder. New adapters can be found from Britpart for a few quid.

The smaller thread going in to the M/Cyl is 3/8 UNF (nut hex is 7/16 spanner) The larger thread of the steel adapter is 7/16 UNF (nut hex 1/2 inch spanner).

The lower oil pump filter bases shared the same bolt holes so you can swap filter housings between Rover V8's. The issue is that the filter will be mounted in different ways usually for clearance to front axle, chassis legs etc.

The biggest issue with earlier Series models were the seatbelts which had the shoulder strap secured to a fixing behind the top of the front seats. In a head on collision the belt would compress downwards resulting in serious shoulder injuries. Later hard top models had the shoulder strap...

No pin in blue box. Red box uses a pin in some earlier Series 2 models. If you're disassembling them, you can remove the 7/16 hex bolt and screw in a grease nipple. Makes a difference...

You seem to be having too many oil leaks. I suggest checking your crankcase breather system. If its not venting vapours/pressure, you'll find oil leaks everywhere...

A red top will be fine. The carburettored RRC had them as OE fitment. I'd suggest putting a filter ahead of it so you can easily see if it's dirty. They have an internal filter (behind the hex cap) which cannot be easily monitored.

I've had SU's on my V8 Series for decades an I've never had any issues. Certainly nothing heat related. They're off an SD1 and run on a dead head layout, so there's no return back to the tank, just a feed from the pump. I've an electric fuel pump bolted to the transfer box with a generic plastic...

The ignition amplifier must have an earth, through its two mounting screws. Its relocation is a very good idea but relying on the inner wing of a RRC as an earth can be a gamble due to corrosion. I'd suggest running a wire from the amp and earth it on the dizzy if it has a male spade poking out...