Recent content by pwood999

Similar "on the ground" applies to wheelnuts (until I got my DeWalt) !! I've always laughed at people that jack the car first & then try to loosen them with the usual car wheel wrench. This is the one I have . . . . bit of an animal, but really useful. Good for over-tight or rusted chassis...

On earlier Wabco-C, the live data only works at slow speeds. I think the limit is 5mph, but it could be 5kph ? Not got one, but I heard Wabco-D gives live data at higher speeds.

Remove the centre cap on the wheel & with wheel on the ground. Then make sure your socket goes through, use either long breaker bar of decent ratchet gun. I span the hub nuts off my son's FL1 TD4 easily with my DeWalt 18V 1/2" impact.

If the front drive is fecked, then it does sound like the VCU is working ok. I would just take the VCU off & bench test it. Clamp one side in vice & turn the other with a pry bar.

I would check with other garages. If the turbos are £1000 each (refurbs probably less & most have 24 month warranty), then they are either marking them up or charging a lot for labour. Might be worth giving these people a call. https://best-turbos.co.uk/land-rover-turbo-replacement/

How often does it roll forwards ?

Do you know if the BECM is Locked or Unlocked ? If it's Unlocked go into BECM-Settings-alarm, and scroll to the last page. If the EKA shows as dashes, it's locked . . . .but you might see the EKA there ? Also when you disabled alarm & immobiliser, did you also disable the EKA ? If not try...

BECM might not actually disable the Immobiliser while it's waiting for EKA ? Cannot be 100% sure on this. Sounds like the FOB is sending a code the BECM accepts ? If the fob was wrong or BECM corrupt, I think it would say this. Conversely the message for a good code is the same without...

Another question about the slight play in the front flange bearing. Looking at the exploded diagrams, it seem the centre diff has two bearings, but the flange relies on one bearing & whatever tolerances exits between it and the diff splines ? Could this be the reason for the play rather than...

Definitely only need gradual acceleration. The whine was quite obvious before.

ok thanks Keith. Do you think I would be ok for a short drive up to 40-50mph, or is that gonna kill the VCU ? Only need 1 mile round trip to get out of the 30 zone.

BTW, I'm assuming with front prop removed there's nothing to strain the VCU because the output flange just spins ? Therefore I should be able to safely check for rear diff whine at higher speeds ? Rear prop off & driving with front prop only puts all the torque through the VCU hence why it's...

[update] Took it for short drive round the block with front prop removed & see if the whine is still there. Can't hear it up to 30mph, so I'm thinking of taking front diff out the check it while it's accessible. (Yes I did put nuts & washers back on the TB output flange non-removable bolts...

Been chasing down the cause of my drivetrain whine (and new rumble) today, so started with front propshaft. The UJ at the transfer box definitely needs replacing, so will do them all as it doiesn't cost much. There also seems to be slight play on the transfer front output bearing. (probably...

Nanocom Evolution with Green Cable for all models of P38. Licenses are specific for EDC, GEMS or Motronic. Price depends on whether you're inside EU or VAT free !! https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/browse There's also some used on eBay, but licenses vary, and you will need to...